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Stump Removal Tips
Most homeowners
enjoy the presence of
beautiful trees in their yards; however, when
these trees must be removed, unsightly stumps
remain. Quick, easy and cheap methods to remove
these stumps do not exist, but here are some
helpful tips on what can be done.
Rotting
If there is no particular
hurry in removing the stump or if you can
camouflage it, rotting is the easiest, cheapest
and safest method of removal. You may also
consider leaving a tall stump to rot naturally
and provide food and habitat for
wildlife. Rotting wood is a favorite source of
insect food for a variety of birds.
The organisms that rot or decay wood are called
fungi. Fungi do not possess chlorophyll and
consequently must derive food from other sources
such as wood stumps. For fungi to live and grow,
they must have the proper temperature, moisture,
oxygen and food conditions. Food is supplied by
the stump or wood, and oxygen is supplied by
contact with the atmosphere. For optimum fungal
growth, the temperature should range from 50 to
90 degrees F. The wood moisture
content should be approximately 20 percent to
slightly higher, but not water soaked. These
optimum conditions do not exist for long
periods, thus stump rotting actually occurs
intermittently and decay of the entire stump is
a long-term process.
To enhance decay
conditions, the stump should be cut as near
ground level as possible, covered with sod and
kept moist. If possible, several large holes at
least 1 inch in diameter should be bored
vertically into the stump. These holes expose
more wood and slightly hasten decay. During the
first year following tree removal, the organisms
that decay the wood tend to be nitrogen-limited.
That means that the addition of fertilizer
during the first year, especially a high
nitrogen fertilizer, will hasten decay. Be
careful not to add so much as to cause a
fertilizer ?gburn?h to surrounding plants.
The organisms that come along to decay the stump
after the first year or so tend to be
carbon-limited. That means that adding high
nitrogen fertilizer no longer hastens the decay.
The alternative is to add carbons (in the form
of sugar) to the wood after the first year.
Simply add some ordinary granulated sugar
through those holes and the process will speed
up considerably. Keep in mind that the heartwood
of some species such as cedar, mulberry, bois
d'Arcy and locust are naturally durable and will
take much longer to decay than softer woods.
As the stump rots, depressions or holes will
develop. These can be unsightly and a hazard.
You can re-fill these depressions with topsoil
as they develop.
.
Grubbing
The quickest, but
unfortunately the most difficult, stump removal
method is grubbing - that is, pulling or digging
out the whole stump. Stumps from trees smaller
than 14 inches in diameter are often not too
difficult to remove with this method, but stumps
from trees larger or trees with large tap roots
such as hickory and pine may be very difficult
to remove.
The usual method of
grubbing is to dig a trench or ditch around the
stump from 1 to 2 feet wide and 1 to 2 feet
deep. Cut the lateral roots with an axe, grub
hoe or mattock. On tap-rooted trees, pry the
stump to one side and sever the tap root. Roll,
drag, winch or slide the stump from the hole. On
large trees it is sometimes helpful to leave a
stump 4 to 6 feet tall. This high stump can be
used as a lever to break the stump free of the
ground and roots. You can re-fill the hole
created by the removal of the stump with
topsoil.
.
Burning
Burning has long been an
acceptable method of stump removal, but it is
the least recommended way to remove stumps. This
is because burning under low oxygen conditions,
such as those surrounding the underground parts
of the stump, creates charcoal that is almost
impossible to decompose. If, however, you prefer
to burn to remove the above-ground portions of
the stump, it is important to check with local
fire ordinances before burning. Do not burn
stumps near buildings or other flammable
materials or where human safety is
involved. Because stumps may burn for two to
three weeks, it is a good idea to build a
temporary fence around them. A trench or fire
line around the stump may help prevent the fire
from escaping to wooded or grassy areas.
Dry stumps, like dry
wood, burn the best. Because of its contact with
the ground, a stump will never dry completely,
but the moisture content will decrease after the
tree has been cut and exposed to dry weather for
some time.
The most efficient way of
stump burning is with a ?gstove.?h Depending on
the stump size, use a metal can such as a
5-gallon paint can and remove the top and
bottom. Now punch 1-inch draft holes in the side
and near the bottom. Place the stove on top of
the stump (or down over it) and build a fire in
it. Kindling may be used to start the fire, but
charcoal or coal works better to keep it going.
After the fire burns the wood of one part of the
stump, move the stove to a new location. Bricks
or stones may also be used to build a stove.
.
Chemical Removers
.
There is no miracle
chemical on the market that dissolves a stump
overnight. Some of the more common chemicals
offered for sale are potassium nitrate or
saltpeter, sulphuric acid and nitric acid. Some
chemicals have been ineffective.
.
Stump Grinders
Many arborists (tree care
specialists) or tree removal services have a
machine that mechanically grinds the stumps to
below the soil line. Also, some equipment rental
business rent stump grinders. The process takes
only a few minutes but may be expensive. This
process leaves a conspicuous hole you can fill
with topsoil. Check with your county agent or
professional arborist for available services and
prices.
.
Decorative approach
If all else fails, use
the stump as a planter base, ornament or yard
decoration. Ivy or other plants can be used
to hide stumps quickly.
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Prevent Sprouting
Some trees have a
tendency to sprout after being cut. Resprouting
is not only undesirable from the standpoint of
having the tree removed, but it may also slow
stump rotting. To prevent sprouting, apply a
herbicide to the freshly cut stump. The
herbicide should be applied within 24 hours of
cutting. Apply the chemical to the area where
the bark joins the wood of the stump.
Contact your local county
agent or garden center for the proper herbicide.
Replanting
It is often desirable to replace trees that have
been removed. Keep two things in mind, though.
First, the presence of the root systems from the
tree you removed will make it difficult to dig a
good planting hole (unless you grubbed out the
roots of the removed tree). Second, organisms
that rot stumps and underground wood often tie
up other important resources, sometimes for
years. This can make it difficult for the new
tree to get what it needs to survive and thrive.
Therefore it generally is not a good idea to
plant a replacement tree in the exact same spot
as one that was removed. It is better to situate
the new tree at a short distance from the
original tree, or select a new site that is
appropriate for your new tree. Remember to plant
your new tree at least 15 feet from the nearest
structure and where it will not grow
into utility lines.
Contact your local county agent or garden center
for recommendations for replacement trees.
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